It's been quite some time since we returned from our trip to Mérida, but I thought I would add the completed video we produced, as a way to round out the blog, and complete our story. Producing this video for EducaTE was an extremely rewarding experience, and the result is something we are proud to be a part of. Enjoy the video, and please do YOUR part to support the less fortunate children of the Yucatán. Thanks!
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Returning Home
8/12/10: 4am comes way too soon...
Cherie kindly arranged to have a friend of hers (who does taxi service) drive us to the airport so we could catch our flight home. Bleary-eyed, we loaded up the car and said goodbye to Casa Walker. Had hoped to have a decent breakfast at the airport, but the best we could do was Burger King... again.
Travel days are usually a blur, but one aspect of this day will never be forgotten. For whatever reason, our first flight ran way behind schedule, giving us VERY little time to make our connection. We got off the plane and RAN through the airport with the kids and our bags, making it to the check in counter as the last passengers were boarding. No problem with getting on the plane, other than the fact that it was a full flight and we were told we couldn't bring our carry-ons with us. We would have to check the bags we had with us.
Ok, so you're telling me I'm supposed to check my cameras, microphones, hard drive, telephone...all the electronic equipment...even the Wii? We had two carry-on bags STUFFED with fragile equipment, and I'm supposed to hand it over to have it thrown in the bottom of the plane? No can do. I may as well have tossed it all in the trash.
The result is that we were not allowed on the plane and had to wait for another flight a couple of hours later. Ughhh. Two bored kids, two tired parents, stuck in the airport for two more hours. Double ughhh.
I've resigned myself to the fact that NONE of our trips happen without at least one day of rough travel. Usually that happens on the return home, so that any relaxation that was achieved by even going on vacation can be completely unraveled. But once we were finally able to board the new plane, the remaining flight was rather uneventful (and that's perfectly fine).
I must admit we had one very nice surprise waiting for us when we arrived at the airport. The town car we had reserved to take us home was not available; so the driver showed up for us in a stretch limousine instead!
After such a long day, it was so nice to stretch our legs, have a drink, and relax in comfort. The kids got such a kick out of the luxurious ride in a "big fancy car", and one of the boys on the street did a real double take as we pulled up to our house. I can only imagine what the neighbors thought. Here we leave the country for a full month, and when we finally return, it's in a stretch limo, like we're somebody important. What a life!
And that's our story. Back at home in one piece, missing Mérida, but happy to relax a while. We survived a whole month abroad (happily) and would gladly do it again. We had such a great time, met some fantastic people, saw lots of amazing sights, and gave our children the experience of a lifetime.
We are truly blessed, and will always remain grateful for this tremendous opportunity. Looking forward to a return visit someday!
Cherie kindly arranged to have a friend of hers (who does taxi service) drive us to the airport so we could catch our flight home. Bleary-eyed, we loaded up the car and said goodbye to Casa Walker. Had hoped to have a decent breakfast at the airport, but the best we could do was Burger King... again.
Travel days are usually a blur, but one aspect of this day will never be forgotten. For whatever reason, our first flight ran way behind schedule, giving us VERY little time to make our connection. We got off the plane and RAN through the airport with the kids and our bags, making it to the check in counter as the last passengers were boarding. No problem with getting on the plane, other than the fact that it was a full flight and we were told we couldn't bring our carry-ons with us. We would have to check the bags we had with us.
Ok, so you're telling me I'm supposed to check my cameras, microphones, hard drive, telephone...all the electronic equipment...even the Wii? We had two carry-on bags STUFFED with fragile equipment, and I'm supposed to hand it over to have it thrown in the bottom of the plane? No can do. I may as well have tossed it all in the trash.
The result is that we were not allowed on the plane and had to wait for another flight a couple of hours later. Ughhh. Two bored kids, two tired parents, stuck in the airport for two more hours. Double ughhh.
I've resigned myself to the fact that NONE of our trips happen without at least one day of rough travel. Usually that happens on the return home, so that any relaxation that was achieved by even going on vacation can be completely unraveled. But once we were finally able to board the new plane, the remaining flight was rather uneventful (and that's perfectly fine).
I must admit we had one very nice surprise waiting for us when we arrived at the airport. The town car we had reserved to take us home was not available; so the driver showed up for us in a stretch limousine instead!
After such a long day, it was so nice to stretch our legs, have a drink, and relax in comfort. The kids got such a kick out of the luxurious ride in a "big fancy car", and one of the boys on the street did a real double take as we pulled up to our house. I can only imagine what the neighbors thought. Here we leave the country for a full month, and when we finally return, it's in a stretch limo, like we're somebody important. What a life!And that's our story. Back at home in one piece, missing Mérida, but happy to relax a while. We survived a whole month abroad (happily) and would gladly do it again. We had such a great time, met some fantastic people, saw lots of amazing sights, and gave our children the experience of a lifetime.
We are truly blessed, and will always remain grateful for this tremendous opportunity. Looking forward to a return visit someday!
Last Day Part 2: The Final Shoot
8/11/10 continued...
After the haircuts, we met up with Jenn and headed back to the house to pack. Grueling and depressing. Enough said.
Yet we still had some unfinished business to attend to before heading back to NJ. One last video shoot for the EducaTE project.
As luck would have it, the program director for EducaTE had just flown back to Mérida the day before, after being abroad in Europe all month. Perfect timing, as it would be a key interview to get some important on-camera insight about the organization.
The kids spent the afternoon playing in the pool while we recorded the interview at the house. Having never met before, we got along great with Katrin, who proved to be yet another super nice person. We chatted with her for close to three hours, and her dedication to the project, as well as her neighbors in Cholul, was evident. Plus, she handled the interview so well, considering she was feeling jet-lagged from traveling the day before. A video shoot is work, of course, but this was really a very pleasant experience. We had met so many truly wonderful people on this visit to the Yucatán... so friendly, warm, and welcoming.
With the interview behind us, we all got cleaned up and dressed to head out for an early dinner. Problem is, it was a bit TOO early, since most places were not yet serving food for the evening. We wandered up and down Calle 59, sweating and baking in the sun, looking for someplace to eat.
We had planned on Pancho's for our final dinner out, but that wasn't going to happen today, I guess. So we found ourselves at Café La Habana instead. The food was fairly good and the air conditioning was cranked, so all was well. Plus, the kids looked like movie stars, waiting in the front window for their paparazzi.
Afterwards, we headed back to the house (quickly) for our appointment with the property manager, then out to meet up with Cherie & Greenwood one last time. On their recommendation, we all sampled some wonderful frozen treats at an ice cream shop they frequent. Mmmm, delicious tropical flavors!
The kids had so much fun with our new friends on this trip, it was really difficult to say goodbye. We are really going to miss them; they are such wonderful people and hopefully we'll be able to come back to visit them in Mérida soon.
Later that night, with the kids finally tucked into bed, Jenn and I headed up to the rooftop with wine glasses in hand, to survey the city and take in the warm summer breezes. We spent a couple of hours reminiscing about our trip, reliving all the highlights of the month, and dreading the return trip home. The time really seemed to fly by, and now we found ourselves wishing we had more time to stay.
How can that be? Really? After four weeks?
After the haircuts, we met up with Jenn and headed back to the house to pack. Grueling and depressing. Enough said.
Yet we still had some unfinished business to attend to before heading back to NJ. One last video shoot for the EducaTE project.
The kids spent the afternoon playing in the pool while we recorded the interview at the house. Having never met before, we got along great with Katrin, who proved to be yet another super nice person. We chatted with her for close to three hours, and her dedication to the project, as well as her neighbors in Cholul, was evident. Plus, she handled the interview so well, considering she was feeling jet-lagged from traveling the day before. A video shoot is work, of course, but this was really a very pleasant experience. We had met so many truly wonderful people on this visit to the Yucatán... so friendly, warm, and welcoming.
We had planned on Pancho's for our final dinner out, but that wasn't going to happen today, I guess. So we found ourselves at Café La Habana instead. The food was fairly good and the air conditioning was cranked, so all was well. Plus, the kids looked like movie stars, waiting in the front window for their paparazzi.
Later that night, with the kids finally tucked into bed, Jenn and I headed up to the rooftop with wine glasses in hand, to survey the city and take in the warm summer breezes. We spent a couple of hours reminiscing about our trip, reliving all the highlights of the month, and dreading the return trip home. The time really seemed to fly by, and now we found ourselves wishing we had more time to stay.
How can that be? Really? After four weeks?
Last Day Part 1: The Haircut
(Oh my gosh! I started writing the final posts and never put them online! This was months ago!)
8/11/10: We've put it off and now there's no avoiding it any longer...it's time to pack for the return trip home. UGH! We awoke with that sick feeling in our stomachs, knowing soon we would need to have all our belongings assembled for the next day's flight.
But first some important business to attend to in the morning. Jennifer returned our car to the rental agency back at the airport, while I took the ULTIMATE leap of faith. A haircut, at a barber in Mexico.
After a month abroad, my hair was getting pretty shaggy, even more unmanageable with the hot climate. And since Lukas was due for a haircut as well, it was time for the boys to take a risk. I was hopeful that even with the language barrier, I would be able to explain to the barber a close approximation of the cut I was looking for. Otherwise, I could be spending my first few weeks back at home wearing a baseball cap 24/7.
Here's how the experience went: The barbershop was due to open at 10am, but when the kids and I got there 20 minutes later, the gate was still down. The corrugated metal door was only partly ajar, so I peeked in to see if the shop was open. A sleepy looking older man was only just now making his way into the shop from the other end, and he indicated that he would be opening soon. My guess is that he was sleeping in the back room, possibly in his living quarters behind the shop. No problem, we took a seat inside and waited... as he washed his face, combed his hair, and made himself look presentable. This took another fifteen minutes, before he finally raised the gate and opened up the shop.
He was finally about to get down to business when a woman behind the door at the back of the shop began calling to him urgently in Spanish. He responded nonchalantly to her while he prepped his combs and scissors, and then I noticed the woman's hand reaching through the doorway, grasping for something. The barber rolled his eyes, shuffled across the floor, and handed her... a roll of toilet paper. It was at this point that I began to wonder if we were being featured in an episode of Candid Camera.
With that interruption behind us, I bravely decided to have the barber start with Lukas first. I used what few Spanish words I knew to get my point across: "Corta solo un poco" (cut only a little bit, or at least I hope that's what I said). The barber said nothing, but smiled politely and set about the task at hand. Lukas was so cooperative and patient, sitting very still and behaving wonderfully, for what seemed like an eternity. The barber shuffled around the chair in small steps, scuffling his feet through the hair clippings in a manner that instantly reminded me of Tim Conway on the Carol Burnett Show (alright, yes, I'm really dating myself, that's apparent). Was this all just another comedy sketch from the 70's?
After a time, the barber finished up with Lukas, and you know what? His haircut looked pretty good! Just a bit shorter that I thought it would be, but it looked really good on him. And I figured if my son could brave his way through this surreal experience, then I certainly couldn't chicken out now. I sat in the chair and said to the barber, "Muy bueno, gracias...", and then I gestured to Luke's hair clipping on the floor, "...pero es demasiado para yo... un poco, por favor." I don't now if it was right but I think it made some sort of sense because the barber nodded and smiled again, instead of that quizzical expression people usually give me when I try to speak Spanish. He set to work again, shuffling around the chair once more.
When all was said and done, Señor Conway actually did a great job...probably one of the best haircuts I've had in a long time. Even better, each cut only cost 40 pesos, which is less than $4.00! Chalk this one up as one of those quirky experiences that are never forgotten.
Now back to the house to pack...
8/11/10: We've put it off and now there's no avoiding it any longer...it's time to pack for the return trip home. UGH! We awoke with that sick feeling in our stomachs, knowing soon we would need to have all our belongings assembled for the next day's flight.
But first some important business to attend to in the morning. Jennifer returned our car to the rental agency back at the airport, while I took the ULTIMATE leap of faith. A haircut, at a barber in Mexico.
After a month abroad, my hair was getting pretty shaggy, even more unmanageable with the hot climate. And since Lukas was due for a haircut as well, it was time for the boys to take a risk. I was hopeful that even with the language barrier, I would be able to explain to the barber a close approximation of the cut I was looking for. Otherwise, I could be spending my first few weeks back at home wearing a baseball cap 24/7.
Here's how the experience went: The barbershop was due to open at 10am, but when the kids and I got there 20 minutes later, the gate was still down. The corrugated metal door was only partly ajar, so I peeked in to see if the shop was open. A sleepy looking older man was only just now making his way into the shop from the other end, and he indicated that he would be opening soon. My guess is that he was sleeping in the back room, possibly in his living quarters behind the shop. No problem, we took a seat inside and waited... as he washed his face, combed his hair, and made himself look presentable. This took another fifteen minutes, before he finally raised the gate and opened up the shop.
He was finally about to get down to business when a woman behind the door at the back of the shop began calling to him urgently in Spanish. He responded nonchalantly to her while he prepped his combs and scissors, and then I noticed the woman's hand reaching through the doorway, grasping for something. The barber rolled his eyes, shuffled across the floor, and handed her... a roll of toilet paper. It was at this point that I began to wonder if we were being featured in an episode of Candid Camera. With that interruption behind us, I bravely decided to have the barber start with Lukas first. I used what few Spanish words I knew to get my point across: "Corta solo un poco" (cut only a little bit, or at least I hope that's what I said). The barber said nothing, but smiled politely and set about the task at hand. Lukas was so cooperative and patient, sitting very still and behaving wonderfully, for what seemed like an eternity. The barber shuffled around the chair in small steps, scuffling his feet through the hair clippings in a manner that instantly reminded me of Tim Conway on the Carol Burnett Show (alright, yes, I'm really dating myself, that's apparent). Was this all just another comedy sketch from the 70's?
When all was said and done, Señor Conway actually did a great job...probably one of the best haircuts I've had in a long time. Even better, each cut only cost 40 pesos, which is less than $4.00! Chalk this one up as one of those quirky experiences that are never forgotten.
Now back to the house to pack...
Friday, September 17, 2010
One last beach day
(In the home stretch...gotta get these last posts done while the memories are still fresh. We've been back home for a few weeks already!)
Tuesday August 10th was really our final opportunity to squeeze in some last minute fun; the specter of our last day was looming closer, which of course would mean packing up for the return home. I had been sick the night before, but awoke feeling mostly better, so we decided to head to Progreso for one more day of surf and sand.
We found a comfortable spot much further to the west and nearer the pier, seemingly where the locals choose to relax as well. There were considerably fewer vendors trolling the beach here; only the occasional pastry tray paraded by from time to time. The kids settled into their usual routine of digging in the sand at the water's edge, searching for shells and buried treasures.
Jennifer lamented that it was our last beach day and she had never gotten the opportunity for a beachside massage, which she had enjoyed during last year's trip. Within moments, two women approached, passing out business cards for... you guessed it, massage services at the nearby hotel! Jenn seized the chance, and got a quick 30 minute back massage for about $8 US. What is that, about a quarter of what you would pay back home?
She returned to the blanket relaxed, and so we spent another couple of hours enjoying the beach before hunger set in. Eladio's was just nearby, so we packed up our things to go enjoy a nice meal on the beach. As we lifted our blanket off the sand, we realized that just underneath had been a shriveled up fish head. I had been laying on a FISH HEAD the whole time, relaxing on the beach, oblivious. At least there had been no smell, which means it must have been there a long, LONG time. You'd think you would notice if you were spreading your beach blanket down on a dead fish, but no, not us!
Lunch at Eladio's was nice...
free botanas (appetizers), good food, and excellent, friendly service. Our waiter chatted with us about the cruise ship that had been in port just the day before. We were glad to have missed it, since the beaches and restaurants would likely have been very crowded compared to today.
After finishing their lunches, Emma and Lukas swam with some other children in the restaurant's kiddy pool, right on the beachfront. While they swam, Jenn bought some handmade bracelets from a little girl selling jewelry. She had such a no-nonsense demeanor that was very amusing, so we just couldn't resist. We wound up buying four from her. A very shrewd little business woman.
With lunch behind us, we headed back to Mérida, where the kids enjoyed some more late afternoon pool time. Later in the evening, we got dressed and rounded out the day with a return visit to Pane e Vino. Italian food is never a bad idea. The only strange thing about it was that all of the other patrons in the restaurant this evening were French.
There must have been some sort of French tour in town, and they had all chosen Italian food for dinner. However, they didn't seem to be on their best behavior, because we saw one woman help herself to an extra glass of wine from the waiter's cart when he was out of the room. And afterwards, it appeared that a young couple tried to skip out on their check; they gathered all their things and made a beeline for the door before they were intercepted by the waiter. They pulled out their guidebook and hastily started asking him for directions as he led them back to their table. Hmmm. It all made for some very interesting dinner entertainment!
Tuesday August 10th was really our final opportunity to squeeze in some last minute fun; the specter of our last day was looming closer, which of course would mean packing up for the return home. I had been sick the night before, but awoke feeling mostly better, so we decided to head to Progreso for one more day of surf and sand.We found a comfortable spot much further to the west and nearer the pier, seemingly where the locals choose to relax as well. There were considerably fewer vendors trolling the beach here; only the occasional pastry tray paraded by from time to time. The kids settled into their usual routine of digging in the sand at the water's edge, searching for shells and buried treasures.
Jennifer lamented that it was our last beach day and she had never gotten the opportunity for a beachside massage, which she had enjoyed during last year's trip. Within moments, two women approached, passing out business cards for... you guessed it, massage services at the nearby hotel! Jenn seized the chance, and got a quick 30 minute back massage for about $8 US. What is that, about a quarter of what you would pay back home?
She returned to the blanket relaxed, and so we spent another couple of hours enjoying the beach before hunger set in. Eladio's was just nearby, so we packed up our things to go enjoy a nice meal on the beach. As we lifted our blanket off the sand, we realized that just underneath had been a shriveled up fish head. I had been laying on a FISH HEAD the whole time, relaxing on the beach, oblivious. At least there had been no smell, which means it must have been there a long, LONG time. You'd think you would notice if you were spreading your beach blanket down on a dead fish, but no, not us!
Lunch at Eladio's was nice...
free botanas (appetizers), good food, and excellent, friendly service. Our waiter chatted with us about the cruise ship that had been in port just the day before. We were glad to have missed it, since the beaches and restaurants would likely have been very crowded compared to today.
After finishing their lunches, Emma and Lukas swam with some other children in the restaurant's kiddy pool, right on the beachfront. While they swam, Jenn bought some handmade bracelets from a little girl selling jewelry. She had such a no-nonsense demeanor that was very amusing, so we just couldn't resist. We wound up buying four from her. A very shrewd little business woman.
There must have been some sort of French tour in town, and they had all chosen Italian food for dinner. However, they didn't seem to be on their best behavior, because we saw one woman help herself to an extra glass of wine from the waiter's cart when he was out of the room. And afterwards, it appeared that a young couple tried to skip out on their check; they gathered all their things and made a beeline for the door before they were intercepted by the waiter. They pulled out their guidebook and hastily started asking him for directions as he led them back to their table. Hmmm. It all made for some very interesting dinner entertainment!
Sunday, September 5, 2010
The Majesty of Mayapán
By Monday, we were down to the last three days of our trip, and feeling a bit melancholy at the thought of going home soon. The kids were really hoping to explore some more ruins, so we decided to squeeze in one last archeological expedition. We had heard great things about Mayapán, so decided to give it a try. At least if there were fewer mosquitos than Edzná, the trip would be a success.
On our way out of Mérida, we passed this sign for a local BBQ joint. I'll never understand the appeal of a cartoon pig, happily cooking himself for your enjoyment. Don't those animals ever catch on?
We journeyed south toward Mayapán, and passed through Acancéh for the third time in all our travels. There is supposedly a large Mayan pyramid right in the middle of the town, which the guidebooks say you can't possibly miss. But for the life of us, we can't seem to find this elusive pyramid. So much for guidebooks!
Mayapán is believed to have been founded around 1000A.D., after a powerful dynasty left Chichen Itza to establish a new capital. The guidebook didn't have very much to say about it, but it pointed out that Mayapán doesn't attract very many visitors, partly because it's not on the traditional Mayan routes. When we pulled into the lot and saw we were the only car there, we realized the book was accurate in that respect.
In fact, we were absolutely the ONLY people at the site except for a handful of archeologists working at Mayapán. The entire time. We had the whole site all to ourselves to explore on our own. And what a spectacular ruin site it was.
The grounds at Mayapán are immaculately maintained and the structures are under active restoration. The archeologists on hand were pouring cement and restoring steps, all while we were exploring the ruins. Thatched roofs now adorn some of the temples, which I would take as further indication of the thorough restoration underway. Plus, there were plenty of intact structures in fantastic condition, including a major pyramid and an observatory.
There truly seemed to be a serene atmosphere at Mayapán, and there were absolutely none of the threatening mosquitos we encountered at Edzná. Jennifer remarked that it would be the perfect place to shoot a yoga video. Alas, if we only had more time! An excellent idea, although I think we'll have to plan a winter visit, since right now it's still too darn hot.
We were surprised by the rows of columns lined up throughout the site, which served as great hiding spots for the kids and a challenge for the adults. The kids also loved playing hide and seek in the observatory, but it wasn't long before they were hot and thirsty from all the running around.
Perhaps the most memorable moment at Mayapán was when Jennifer decided to explore a thatched hut near the base of the main pyramid. The hut seemed to be open on each side with a dividing wall in the middle. As she poked her head inside, she immediately let out a bloodcurdling scream and ran out, then started laughing because she had been startled by a bird that was flying at her. I started laughing even more so, because little did she know that there were three archeologists on the other side of the wall, probably terrorized by her sudden outburst. I could just picture them intent on their work enjoying the peace and quiet, when along comes Jenn, screaming into the hut. They certainly cannot be used to visitors there!
There were lots of details to take notice of at Mayapán, like snake head sculptures, painted frescos, and giant Chaac masks. Some of the most striking and disturbing features were the stucco reliefs at the base of the Castillo de Kukulkán. There you can see carvings of complete Mayan figures, save for an opening in the stone where the head should be. On these shelves were found skulls, perhaps of sacrificial victims or the ancient ancestors of the city.
With virtually no one in sight, Jenn and I decided to climb the pyramid while the kids played at the bottom. That way, we could keep them in sight at all times while checking out the magnificent view, plus add another pyramid to our roster in the process. You see, ever since she shrank away from the climb at Ek Balaam last year, Jennifer has been making up for opportunities lost. I'm proud that she got over her fear and seized the chance this time around.
It was just amazing to see this entire settlement sprawled out before us, but this time, with no other tourists around to spoil the view. It was like having our own private kingdom to leisurely play in and explore, without anyone else to get in the way. And since archeologists believe there are many more structures tucked away in the surrounding jungle, you could look around from this vantage point and just imagine what Mayapán may have looked like in its heyday hundreds of years ago.
Mayapán proved to be such a great site to visit that it practically begs to have more visitors recognize its importance, but in ways, we almost hope it stays off the tourist radar and retains its quiet, dignified charm. It's truly like a hidden gem, one we hope to return to some day.
We climbed down tentatively and rejoined the kids (getting down is always more unnerving than climbing up!) then gathered our things to leave the ruins. On our way out, we found a platform where tribal dancers likely entertained the ruling elite long ago.
We couldn't miss this chance for Emma to showcase her signature dance moves in all their expressive glory on this ancient stage (see the video clip below).
Speaking of Emma, she became known as the butterfly whisperer of Mayapán, because with the hundreds of tiny butterflies fluttering about the ruins, she somehow managed to catch a dozen or more in her hands (not all at once of course!). She had great fun charming them like a garden fairy.
By the time we left the ruins it was midday and we were in need of hydration, so we stopped at a little tienda on the way back to pick up some agua and juice for the kids. After some pleasant conversation with the shopkeeper, we hit the road again in search of a cenote for an afternoon swim. And that's when we happened upon one of the most surprising sights of our trip.
There we were driving down the highway, when we noticed a man's body lying in the shoulder on the side of the road. As we saw this up ahead of us, Jenn slowed the car down just enough for us to realize (with relief) that this wasn't a dead body; it was a guy SLEEPING in the road, with his head propped up on a bundle of clothes. Just snoozing away, taking a nap in the unlikeliest of places. A distracted driver could swerve just a bit too far to the right and Señor Siesta would be having one MAJOR headache.
We just couldn't believe our eyes as we passed the sleepy Mexican, so we turned the car around and got the camera ready for a picture. As Jennifer slowly inched the car up to the perfect spot, I aimed the camera out the window and snapped a picture. But as soon as the camera clicked, the body twitched, the head turned, and Mr. Mexican was looking right at us, giving us the shock of our lives. We gasped and Jenn sped away, both of us laughing about the incident. If only I had had the nerve to snap another picture of the man staring right at us, it certainly would have made for an interesting photo sequence!
We made our way north once again to Acancéh...and guess what? There's the elusive pyramid right before our eyes! Not very elusive at all since we must have driven right past the structure several times already without ever seeing it. I can only guess that our eyes have been drawn to the big yellow church across the street every other time we've passed by.
Anyway, from Acancéh we traveled east, past Cuzamá (I still shudder at the name) to Homún, where we finally found Cenote Tza Ujun Kat. Once there, a group of kids tried to talk us into a tour of some nearby caves, but we politely refused since we just wanted to check out the cenote. We got some refreshments and snacks at the restaurant next door, changed into swim gear in their bathrooms, then climbed down the long stairway to the water below.
The underground cavern was huge, with a large opening above where sunlight could stream in. The cenote was pretty busy with lots of locals, but there was still plenty of room for swimming and playing. The water was nice and clear, so the kids had a great time exploring and looking for fish. I of course tried to take a few pictures, and was rewarded with a nice flop of bird poop on my hand. But I guess after a month of this nature stuff, what are you gonna do? I washed it off in the cenote and carried on.
After about an hour of swimming underground, we emerged from the cenote to find thick clouds and a quickly darkening sky. By the time we left Homún, the skies had opened up, so we had to contend with rain for most of our trip back to Mérida. Lukas had no trouble sleeping through it, though.
Strangely, by the time we made it back to our place, I was definitely not feeling well. Achy joints, chills, and a fever, which had me curling up in bed early for the night. What was up with that? The whole day had been so nice, with lots of fun at Mayapán and the cenote afterwards. The night was spent trying to stay warm under covers, hoping to feel better by morning. I did NOT want to spend the last two days of our trip sick in bed!
On our way out of Mérida, we passed this sign for a local BBQ joint. I'll never understand the appeal of a cartoon pig, happily cooking himself for your enjoyment. Don't those animals ever catch on?We journeyed south toward Mayapán, and passed through Acancéh for the third time in all our travels. There is supposedly a large Mayan pyramid right in the middle of the town, which the guidebooks say you can't possibly miss. But for the life of us, we can't seem to find this elusive pyramid. So much for guidebooks!
Mayapán is believed to have been founded around 1000A.D., after a powerful dynasty left Chichen Itza to establish a new capital. The guidebook didn't have very much to say about it, but it pointed out that Mayapán doesn't attract very many visitors, partly because it's not on the traditional Mayan routes. When we pulled into the lot and saw we were the only car there, we realized the book was accurate in that respect.In fact, we were absolutely the ONLY people at the site except for a handful of archeologists working at Mayapán. The entire time. We had the whole site all to ourselves to explore on our own. And what a spectacular ruin site it was.
The grounds at Mayapán are immaculately maintained and the structures are under active restoration. The archeologists on hand were pouring cement and restoring steps, all while we were exploring the ruins. Thatched roofs now adorn some of the temples, which I would take as further indication of the thorough restoration underway. Plus, there were plenty of intact structures in fantastic condition, including a major pyramid and an observatory. There truly seemed to be a serene atmosphere at Mayapán, and there were absolutely none of the threatening mosquitos we encountered at Edzná. Jennifer remarked that it would be the perfect place to shoot a yoga video. Alas, if we only had more time! An excellent idea, although I think we'll have to plan a winter visit, since right now it's still too darn hot.
We were surprised by the rows of columns lined up throughout the site, which served as great hiding spots for the kids and a challenge for the adults. The kids also loved playing hide and seek in the observatory, but it wasn't long before they were hot and thirsty from all the running around. 
Perhaps the most memorable moment at Mayapán was when Jennifer decided to explore a thatched hut near the base of the main pyramid. The hut seemed to be open on each side with a dividing wall in the middle. As she poked her head inside, she immediately let out a bloodcurdling scream and ran out, then started laughing because she had been startled by a bird that was flying at her. I started laughing even more so, because little did she know that there were three archeologists on the other side of the wall, probably terrorized by her sudden outburst. I could just picture them intent on their work enjoying the peace and quiet, when along comes Jenn, screaming into the hut. They certainly cannot be used to visitors there!
There were lots of details to take notice of at Mayapán, like snake head sculptures, painted frescos, and giant Chaac masks. Some of the most striking and disturbing features were the stucco reliefs at the base of the Castillo de Kukulkán. There you can see carvings of complete Mayan figures, save for an opening in the stone where the head should be. On these shelves were found skulls, perhaps of sacrificial victims or the ancient ancestors of the city.
With virtually no one in sight, Jenn and I decided to climb the pyramid while the kids played at the bottom. That way, we could keep them in sight at all times while checking out the magnificent view, plus add another pyramid to our roster in the process. You see, ever since she shrank away from the climb at Ek Balaam last year, Jennifer has been making up for opportunities lost. I'm proud that she got over her fear and seized the chance this time around.
It was just amazing to see this entire settlement sprawled out before us, but this time, with no other tourists around to spoil the view. It was like having our own private kingdom to leisurely play in and explore, without anyone else to get in the way. And since archeologists believe there are many more structures tucked away in the surrounding jungle, you could look around from this vantage point and just imagine what Mayapán may have looked like in its heyday hundreds of years ago.
Mayapán proved to be such a great site to visit that it practically begs to have more visitors recognize its importance, but in ways, we almost hope it stays off the tourist radar and retains its quiet, dignified charm. It's truly like a hidden gem, one we hope to return to some day. 
We climbed down tentatively and rejoined the kids (getting down is always more unnerving than climbing up!) then gathered our things to leave the ruins. On our way out, we found a platform where tribal dancers likely entertained the ruling elite long ago.
We couldn't miss this chance for Emma to showcase her signature dance moves in all their expressive glory on this ancient stage (see the video clip below).
By the time we left the ruins it was midday and we were in need of hydration, so we stopped at a little tienda on the way back to pick up some agua and juice for the kids. After some pleasant conversation with the shopkeeper, we hit the road again in search of a cenote for an afternoon swim. And that's when we happened upon one of the most surprising sights of our trip.
There we were driving down the highway, when we noticed a man's body lying in the shoulder on the side of the road. As we saw this up ahead of us, Jenn slowed the car down just enough for us to realize (with relief) that this wasn't a dead body; it was a guy SLEEPING in the road, with his head propped up on a bundle of clothes. Just snoozing away, taking a nap in the unlikeliest of places. A distracted driver could swerve just a bit too far to the right and Señor Siesta would be having one MAJOR headache.
We made our way north once again to Acancéh...and guess what? There's the elusive pyramid right before our eyes! Not very elusive at all since we must have driven right past the structure several times already without ever seeing it. I can only guess that our eyes have been drawn to the big yellow church across the street every other time we've passed by.
After about an hour of swimming underground, we emerged from the cenote to find thick clouds and a quickly darkening sky. By the time we left Homún, the skies had opened up, so we had to contend with rain for most of our trip back to Mérida. Lukas had no trouble sleeping through it, though.Strangely, by the time we made it back to our place, I was definitely not feeling well. Achy joints, chills, and a fever, which had me curling up in bed early for the night. What was up with that? The whole day had been so nice, with lots of fun at Mayapán and the cenote afterwards. The night was spent trying to stay warm under covers, hoping to feel better by morning. I did NOT want to spend the last two days of our trip sick in bed!
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Sunday in the Park with Family
We spent Sunday close to home, exploring Mérida with a combination of sightseeing and shopping. Started out by hitting the market, and finally found the shop we had seen earlier that had the soccer uniforms we wanted to try on Lukas. We couldn't decide so we wound up getting him a green Team Mexico outfit plus a red and white striped Bimbo bread sponsorship uniform. Bimbo is the Mexican equivalent of Wonder bread, and no, he doesn't need to know the negative implications the word 'bimbo' might have in American language! He just looks cute.
From there we spent some time in the Museo MACAY, which is the contemporary art museum. There we found the Yucatan's answer to the Mona Lisa. But the most memorable exhibit was an antique wedding dress that had been fashioned into a family tree. The artist had embroidered on it pictures of each family member, including all the couples and their wedding dates. From the images, threads led to notes and details that surrounded the dress all over the floor. It made you wonder whether the dress was handed down from generation to generation, and worn at each wedding throughout the years. A very interesting and beautiful way to transform a family heirloom into a true work of art.
Afterwards we made our way to Plaza de la Independencia, where the Sunday in Mérida celebration was going on once again, as it does every week. We combed through the handcrafts looking for souvenirs, and Jennifer finally picked up a couple of beautiful embroidered Yucatecan dresses (I had been after her all month to get one because they look great on her and she could wear it in our family photo before we ended our trip). I found a couple of linen guayaberas that I really liked as well. Afterwards, we walked the park, listened to music, and worked up an appetite.
We wandered into La Serenata on Calle 60 and went to their upstairs dining room for lunch. In retrospect, the food was so-so and the atmosphere was non-existent, but at least it had a nice view of the park and all the festivities going on. Oh yes, and more Jamaica tea for the kids (what do they put in that stuff, they're addicted!)
After lunch we walked a bit more, then treated the kids to tropical sorbets at El Colon. Mmmmm! Before we knew it, it was 4pm and the parking garage was due to close. We hoofed it back just in time to find our car was the last in the lot.
Once back at the house, the kids happily swam for almost two hours. They just love this pool!
Finally, with the kids in bed for the night, Jenn and I were able to share a nice evening featuring margaritas in the courtyard. What a nice combination: a warm tropical breeze and dancing to Latin music with your sweetheart. Does it get any better?
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