We left Mérida on Monday morning for a two day excursion in search of archeological ruins along the Puuc Route. This region south of Mérida is a rich concentration of Mayan ruins and caves, so it's a great destination for those seeking adventure.
Our trip started with an unexpected detour through the village of Uman, where we had to stop to ask for directions four times before finding our way back out to the main highway. The villagers were pleasant and very helpful, but somehow we just weren't fully grasping what they were telling us in Spanish. We were quite literally the only gringos in the entire village, so I'm sure it was quite amusing.
After an hour's journey, we arrived at the Sacbé Bungalows to check in for our evenings stay. Apparently it's sort of an eco-lodge, where the owners appear out of the jungle, then vanish into thin air, then reappear elsewhere within seconds, leaving you to wonder about the strange powers they possess. Teleportation? Hmmmm. No matter, as the house was clean, comfortable, and inexpensive. The owner gave us the key, and we would pay in the morning after breakfast. Very trusting.
We returned to the road again and journeyed to Labná, the farthest of the archeological zones on the route. Labná is a lesser known ruin site of a kingdom that abruptly collapsed in the 9th century. Only a handful of other visitors roamed the site while we were there, so we had most of the place to our selves.
We were really surprised that there was so much to see at Labná, and in such good condition...
The kids enjoyed exploring the palace, which has 67 rooms and is adorned with Chaac masks and fascinating embellishments.
From there we passed through the Arch of Labná, which likely separated the residents from the ruling elite. Finally, El Mirador is an extraordinary temple that has been sitting at the peak of a steep pile of rocks for thousands of years.
We took shelter in the arch as a brief shower passed through, then headed back to the car to continue on our journey.
As we walked, Lukas noticed what looked like a very large fossil along the walkway, and then we noticed several more scattered about. Dinosaur bones? They don't LOOK like mere rocks. Who knows?
Since the sky had gotten overcast and there was potential for wet weather, we decided to explore the Loltún Caves, further along the Puuc Route. As we drove the long road to the caves, I read in one of our guidebooks that tarantulas are occasionally encountered in these jungle areas, particularly in the summer months. Just great. Why didn't we hear of this before? I am admittedly not thrilled at the prospect of giant furry spiders possibly crawling up my leg or dropping out of a tree onto my shoulder. Visions of Bobby Brady and his encounter with the Tiki god curse fill our minds.
The caves at Loltún were an EMORMOUS surprise. This wasn't just a few small caves with carvings inside; this was an hour long guided tour through giant caverns deep underground. Twisting, turning stairways of stone, leading from one chamber to another, each with mysteries to be revealed.
At one point I notice bats flying overhead, so our tour guide Pablo brings us directly under a hole in the cave ceiling and shines his flashlight. It's filled with hanging BATS! Ok, bats and possibly tarantulas, the two things that probably creep me out the most. Jenn notices a tiny baby bat clinging to its mothers belly. This picture really doesn't do any justice.
In fact, none of the pictures can capture the experience of the caves, in large part because the flash is too harsh.
Pablo brings us to a canyon and points out tiny Mayan handprints on the ceiling that have been there for centuries upon centuries. By the time we emerge, we've travelled more than half a mile underground.
After the caves, we head back to the bungalow to clean up and change before dinner. Our plan is to eat at the palapa restaurant just outside of Uxmal before heading to see the nightly light show at the ruin site.
Although our food is decent, the service is terrible and the waiter messes up the order, so the kids have to share a meal. It takes forever, so we rush out of there just in time, trying not to miss the show.
Uxmal is the largest and most revered Mayan ruin site in this vicinity, so the evening show gives us a glimpse of the majesty we'll explore further in the morning.
The pyramids and temples are lit up with ever-changing colored spotlights, as an interpretation of the Mayan story is told through audio headsets. The kids are transfixed as they listen, and the experience leaves us eager to begin the day ahead.
We find our way back to the bungalow and turn in for the night. Lukas and Emma have had a busy day, so they sleep soundly. But just before bed, Jenn notices a tiny gecko on the wall, so I spend most of the night with the uncomfortable expectation that it will crawl across my face as I sleep. Or even worse, a tarantula!
No comments:
Post a Comment