Celestún

Lately, posts have been coming slower since the internet connection here has been hit or miss. Ahhh, life in Mexico!

Tuesday morning, we put on our swimsuits and headed out to Celestún, which is about 56 miles west of Mérida. Celestún is known for its inlet of extremely salty waters, which is an ideal feeding area for pink flamingos.

The route once again took us through Uman, where we have a habit of getting lost due to its lack of road signs. This time, we managed to find our way through with only one stop for directions, so we must be getting more accustomed to the surroundings.

Celestún sits on the west coast of the Yucatan Peninsula and has some impressively beautiful beaches. We arrived around noon, so decided to have an early lunch at La Palapa, a beachfront restaurant blessed with a cooling breeze and a nice ocean view. Pulpo was the specialty of the house, since octopus is the main fishing industry for the area, but Jenn ordered camarones coco (coconut shrimp) and I stuck with chicken. The cervezas were ice cold and as usual, the kids can never get enough Jamaica tea.

After lunch, we lounged on the beach for a short while, but the winds were picking up and the sand was starting to fly. Our main reason for the trip was to see the flamingos, so we headed to the bridge and hired a private charter boat.

We enjoyed a pleasant ride up the river in search of the flamingos and also to take a tour of the mangrove reserves. You notice immediately that the water is a rusty shade of red, which is due to the tannins from the roots of the mangrove trees. The red glints of sunshine on the water give it a truly ethereal quality, and you almost have a sense of being in an entirely different world.

Our first stop was a jungle trek, where we saw giant termite nests and learned about the wildlife. Emma was concerned about a poisonous tree that our guide pointed out to us, but we assured her it wasn't going to follow us home. Of greater concern to us was the mosquito population, since we left the repellent in our bag on the boat. Always prepared!

We cut through the mangrove forest to a viewing dock out over a salt flat. A woman's big straw hat blew off her head and out across the flats, impossible to retrieve without sinking in. From the dock, we were able to observe about a hundred flamingos across the water, although in the winter months during mating season there are usually thousands.

They're certainly not the most active creatures to watch, but it is incredible to see so many out in the wild. Here, by the salt marshes, the water is more golder in color, and the kids could find lots of fish swimming below. It was a peaceful, breezy spot to sit in the shade and observe the wildlife around us.

We said goodbye to the flamingos and hiked back through the forest to our boat. Along the way, our guide pointed out a unique tree with thick, abrasive leaves, which the Maya would use for brushing their teeth and washing their skin. It's amazing how civilizations can adapt their natural resources to fit their needs when necessary.

Next, we motored down river for a boat tour through the mangrove forests. It's easy to spot the mangrove trees with their roots visible above the water. Rare birds like to nest in the branches of the mangroves above.

The final stop of our water excursion was a visit to a freshwater spring in the jungle, referred to locally as an 'ojo de agua' or an 'eye of water'. Here, you can actually see the water bubbling up to the surface.

Normally the water is crystal clear, but again the mangrove tannins have had their effect on the spring during the warmer months. Since the water was rather dark, most tourists had lost interest in swimming, and we were set to bypass the spring as well. But the kids were disappointed, and since they had their bathing suits on, the vendor selling snacks nearby assured us the water was fine. And since the ruby red waters were beckoning, Jenn and the kids decided to take a dip for a short while to cool off. Yet another spectacle, as everyone stopped to see the crazy gringos swimming in the jungle. It wasn't until we mentioned the alligators that Lukas would finally come out of the water (don't worry, there are no alligators, at least that we know of).

Afterwards, we headed back to the boat for the return trip, and to wrap up our visit to Celestún. It had been an enjoyable trip, and a fun day with lots to do and see.

Jungle Trek on the Ruta Puuc

We left Mérida on Monday morning for a two day excursion in search of archeological ruins along the Puuc Route. This region south of Mérida is a rich concentration of Mayan ruins and caves, so it's a great destination for those seeking adventure.

Our trip started with an unexpected detour through the village of Uman, where we had to stop to ask for directions four times before finding our way back out to the main highway. The villagers were pleasant and very helpful, but somehow we just weren't fully grasping what they were telling us in Spanish. We were quite literally the only gringos in the entire village, so I'm sure it was quite amusing.

After an hour's journey, we arrived at the Sacbé Bungalows to check in for our evenings stay. Apparently it's sort of an eco-lodge, where the owners appear out of the jungle, then vanish into thin air, then reappear elsewhere within seconds, leaving you to wonder about the strange powers they possess. Teleportation? Hmmmm. No matter, as the house was clean, comfortable, and inexpensive. The owner gave us the key, and we would pay in the morning after breakfast. Very trusting.

We returned to the road again and journeyed to Labná, the farthest of the archeological zones on the route. Labná is a lesser known ruin site of a kingdom that abruptly collapsed in the 9th century. Only a handful of other visitors roamed the site while we were there, so we had most of the place to our selves.

We were really surprised that there was so much to see at Labná, and in such good condition...

The kids enjoyed exploring the palace, which has 67 rooms and is adorned with Chaac masks and fascinating embellishments.

From there we passed through the Arch of Labná, which likely separated the residents from the ruling elite. Finally, El Mirador is an extraordinary temple that has been sitting at the peak of a steep pile of rocks for thousands of years.

We took shelter in the arch as a brief shower passed through, then headed back to the car to continue on our journey.

As we walked, Lukas noticed what looked like a very large fossil along the walkway, and then we noticed several more scattered about. Dinosaur bones? They don't LOOK like mere rocks. Who knows?

Since the sky had gotten overcast and there was potential for wet weather, we decided to explore the Loltún Caves, further along the Puuc Route. As we drove the long road to the caves, I read in one of our guidebooks that tarantulas are occasionally encountered in these jungle areas, particularly in the summer months. Just great. Why didn't we hear of this before? I am admittedly not thrilled at the prospect of giant furry spiders possibly crawling up my leg or dropping out of a tree onto my shoulder. Visions of Bobby Brady and his encounter with the Tiki god curse fill our minds.

The caves at Loltún were an EMORMOUS surprise. This wasn't just a few small caves with carvings inside; this was an hour long guided tour through giant caverns deep underground. Twisting, turning stairways of stone, leading from one chamber to another, each with mysteries to be revealed.

At one point I notice bats flying overhead, so our tour guide Pablo brings us directly under a hole in the cave ceiling and shines his flashlight. It's filled with hanging BATS! Ok, bats and possibly tarantulas, the two things that probably creep me out the most. Jenn notices a tiny baby bat clinging to its mothers belly. This picture really doesn't do any justice.

In fact, none of the pictures can capture the experience of the caves, in large part because the flash is too harsh.

Pablo brings us to a canyon and points out tiny Mayan handprints on the ceiling that have been there for centuries upon centuries. By the time we emerge, we've travelled more than half a mile underground.

After the caves, we head back to the bungalow to clean up and change before dinner. Our plan is to eat at the palapa restaurant just outside of Uxmal before heading to see the nightly light show at the ruin site.

Although our food is decent, the service is terrible and the waiter messes up the order, so the kids have to share a meal. It takes forever, so we rush out of there just in time, trying not to miss the show.

Uxmal is the largest and most revered Mayan ruin site in this vicinity, so the evening show gives us a glimpse of the majesty we'll explore further in the morning.

The pyramids and temples are lit up with ever-changing colored spotlights, as an interpretation of the Mayan story is told through audio headsets. The kids are transfixed as they listen, and the experience leaves us eager to begin the day ahead.

We find our way back to the bungalow and turn in for the night. Lukas and Emma have had a busy day, so they sleep soundly. But just before bed, Jenn notices a tiny gecko on the wall, so I spend most of the night with the uncomfortable expectation that it will crawl across my face as I sleep. Or even worse, a tarantula!