The Majesty of Uxmal

Finally, a new post! The past few days have been really busy...

Although the kids slept right through it, Jenn and I were startled awake at 5am Tuesday morning by the sound of a metallic plink...and then a plonk...and then a swelling ROAR, as the floodgates of the sky opened up and rain jackhammered down upon the tin roof of our bungalow. A wicked thunderstorm was steamrolling its way through the jungle without regard for weary travelers in need of rest. The sky was black as pitch, and the storm seemed to last forever.

This would have seemed like a bad sign for the day ahead, but the clouds had exhausted their supply of rain by dawn, and Tuesday evolved into a beautiful, sunshine-filled day. We started with breakfast served outdoors, then made our way to Uxmal for another day of exploration.

The ruin site of Uxmal is breathtaking and magnificent. It is an absolute must see, for it rivals Chichen Itza in sheer grandeur.

For us, Uxmal is the closest thing to stepping into an intact Mayan kingdom. Two major pyramids, a palace, temples, a royal complex, and many more structures, mostly intact and under active restoration. Plus, so much more in the surrounding jungle growth awaiting excavation.

The most recognizable structure, the Pyramid of the Magician, is also the tallest at 125 feet high. It's noted for its distinctive rounded corners, unlike most other pyramids. Local legend has it that it was built overnight by an alux, which is sort of a Mayan leprechaun. He took over the kingdom after a battle of wills with the king, in which the alux was protected by a magic tortilla! How ever the pyramid was built, it's been dated to about 850 A.D.

While taking our family picture in front of the Pyramid of the Magician, Jenn was stung on the neck by a bee! Can you tell? One of the perils of being an archeological adventurer, it seems.

Due to the constant threat of drought with no local cenote, the underlying theme of Uxmal is the worship of the rain god, Chaac.

Cisterns to collect rain water, plus hundreds of Chaac masks and carvings can be found all over the buildings of the Quadrangle. Chaac has a prominent hook nose as you see above the kids in this shot here.

There was plenty to see and the kids ran around exploring and playing in the courtyard. While trying to get pictures of them, I positioned myself inside one of the rooms to get some shade, only to have a bird poop on my shoulder. Does that mean I've got a lucky year ahead?

After stopping for lunch, we made our way across the grounds to the Great Pyramid, which is more typical in shape that the first. While it's a bit shorter, it still towers at 100 feet high, and tourists are allowed to climb it. So who's up for the challenge? We are!

We weren't about to bring Lukas to the top, but Emma really wanted to climb her first pyramid, so Jenn went up with her first. The little man built his own pyramids at the bottom with the stones scattered across the ground. When the ladies reached the top, they showed off their girl power in action.

Jenn came back down so I could take a turn climbing.

That's a lot of steps to take in the hot sun and the jungle heat, but I wasn't going to miss out on this opportunity.

The view from the top was spectacular and really put the entire site into perspective.

This was once a city, where real people lived, and built what was important to them with their bare hands. These amazing structures, rising out of the jungle as they do, are truly awe inspiring, and the mysteries of what really happened here over a thousand years ago will linger with us for a long time.

Emma was proud to have made it to the top of the pyramid, but the heat of the day was getting to all of us. Apparently, no one had said any prayers to Chaac today, because there wasn't a drop of rain in sight! We circled the 300 foot Governor's Palace, admiring how green the lawns were and how clean and well kept the entire ruin site was. Then it was time to head back to the car for the drive back to Mérida.

It had been a busy day and a hot one at that. The kids cooled off in the pool for awhile, then we headed to Rescoldo's, an authentic Mediterranean pizza spot. Delicious! Finally, excellent pizza in Mexico...with no hot dogs on top!

Jungle Trek on the Ruta Puuc

We left Mérida on Monday morning for a two day excursion in search of archeological ruins along the Puuc Route. This region south of Mérida is a rich concentration of Mayan ruins and caves, so it's a great destination for those seeking adventure.

Our trip started with an unexpected detour through the village of Uman, where we had to stop to ask for directions four times before finding our way back out to the main highway. The villagers were pleasant and very helpful, but somehow we just weren't fully grasping what they were telling us in Spanish. We were quite literally the only gringos in the entire village, so I'm sure it was quite amusing.

After an hour's journey, we arrived at the Sacbé Bungalows to check in for our evenings stay. Apparently it's sort of an eco-lodge, where the owners appear out of the jungle, then vanish into thin air, then reappear elsewhere within seconds, leaving you to wonder about the strange powers they possess. Teleportation? Hmmmm. No matter, as the house was clean, comfortable, and inexpensive. The owner gave us the key, and we would pay in the morning after breakfast. Very trusting.

We returned to the road again and journeyed to Labná, the farthest of the archeological zones on the route. Labná is a lesser known ruin site of a kingdom that abruptly collapsed in the 9th century. Only a handful of other visitors roamed the site while we were there, so we had most of the place to our selves.

We were really surprised that there was so much to see at Labná, and in such good condition...

The kids enjoyed exploring the palace, which has 67 rooms and is adorned with Chaac masks and fascinating embellishments.

From there we passed through the Arch of Labná, which likely separated the residents from the ruling elite. Finally, El Mirador is an extraordinary temple that has been sitting at the peak of a steep pile of rocks for thousands of years.

We took shelter in the arch as a brief shower passed through, then headed back to the car to continue on our journey.

As we walked, Lukas noticed what looked like a very large fossil along the walkway, and then we noticed several more scattered about. Dinosaur bones? They don't LOOK like mere rocks. Who knows?

Since the sky had gotten overcast and there was potential for wet weather, we decided to explore the Loltún Caves, further along the Puuc Route. As we drove the long road to the caves, I read in one of our guidebooks that tarantulas are occasionally encountered in these jungle areas, particularly in the summer months. Just great. Why didn't we hear of this before? I am admittedly not thrilled at the prospect of giant furry spiders possibly crawling up my leg or dropping out of a tree onto my shoulder. Visions of Bobby Brady and his encounter with the Tiki god curse fill our minds.

The caves at Loltún were an EMORMOUS surprise. This wasn't just a few small caves with carvings inside; this was an hour long guided tour through giant caverns deep underground. Twisting, turning stairways of stone, leading from one chamber to another, each with mysteries to be revealed.

At one point I notice bats flying overhead, so our tour guide Pablo brings us directly under a hole in the cave ceiling and shines his flashlight. It's filled with hanging BATS! Ok, bats and possibly tarantulas, the two things that probably creep me out the most. Jenn notices a tiny baby bat clinging to its mothers belly. This picture really doesn't do any justice.

In fact, none of the pictures can capture the experience of the caves, in large part because the flash is too harsh.

Pablo brings us to a canyon and points out tiny Mayan handprints on the ceiling that have been there for centuries upon centuries. By the time we emerge, we've travelled more than half a mile underground.

After the caves, we head back to the bungalow to clean up and change before dinner. Our plan is to eat at the palapa restaurant just outside of Uxmal before heading to see the nightly light show at the ruin site.

Although our food is decent, the service is terrible and the waiter messes up the order, so the kids have to share a meal. It takes forever, so we rush out of there just in time, trying not to miss the show.

Uxmal is the largest and most revered Mayan ruin site in this vicinity, so the evening show gives us a glimpse of the majesty we'll explore further in the morning.

The pyramids and temples are lit up with ever-changing colored spotlights, as an interpretation of the Mayan story is told through audio headsets. The kids are transfixed as they listen, and the experience leaves us eager to begin the day ahead.

We find our way back to the bungalow and turn in for the night. Lukas and Emma have had a busy day, so they sleep soundly. But just before bed, Jenn notices a tiny gecko on the wall, so I spend most of the night with the uncomfortable expectation that it will crawl across my face as I sleep. Or even worse, a tarantula!